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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 last won the day on December 2 2016

Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 had the most liked content!

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About Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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  • Birthday November 30

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Albuquerque NM
  • Interests
    shooting, hiking, hunting, fishing, Scouting, building, gun smithing, wood working. NRA Rifle & Shotgun Instructor and RSO. NRA Life-Endowment.

Previous Fields

  • SASS Number or "Guest"
    60708 LIFE
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Buffalo Range Riders, High Desert Drifters, Rio Grande Renegades

Recent Profile Visitors

7,677 profile views
  1. Cartridge loops

    Yet another channel of unverified comms - no thanks.
  2. PSA-Federal SP primers on sale at Cabela's

    Unavailable to Grafs, maybe. Unavailable to many other vendors - not so much. Each distributor gets shipped product at different times.
  3. Cartridge loops

    No one claimed that the FB posting was a "ruling being made." Clearly, I called it a " rules explanation." Making it just a "second retelling" of what some unnamed person, supposedly from ROC, said in part of a meeting where apparently few of the TGs were even present. I agree - if this was a new rule interpretation at the 2017 EOT TG meeting, this should have been provided to all clubs by their TGs a long time ago. One heck of a poor way to communicate. Good luck, GJ
  4. PSA-Federal SP primers on sale at Cabela's

    Check your local Sportsman's Warehouse. I found most Federal primers at $30 a thou last weekend. They even had the shelves fairly full. Guess Federal has the pipeline about full again. Powder Valley - several types of the Federal large and small pistol primers are well stocked and $30 or so a thou, just not the std small pistol primer currently. Good luck, GJ
  5. Cartridge loops

    I would object STRENUOUSLY to us even considering relying on Facebook for Rules explanations. That is NOT one of the official channels for distributing official rules interpretations, and some organizations do not allow Facebook to even be read within their networks. Too many channels for communications means that there are too many places for all of us to have to check to see if REALITY is being "ruled differently" depending upon what communications channel you have read. Good luck, GJ
  6. ? Ruger Hammers

    Ruger will only install a new factory provided hammer, in stock configuration. Period. They don't have a "custom shop" that will do special requests. They will remove/replace any part that does not seem to be at factory configuration. Good luck, GJ
  7. 1866

    It will HAVE to be between the length of the carrier shaft (usually 1.600") and the break-over point of the "cartridge return ramp" on the front face of the carrier block. You can measure both max and min acceptable lengths most easily by pulling the carrier block out of the gun, but minimum acceptable OAL can be measured closely enough by dropping in a toothpick (or similar wood or plastic stick), letting one end slide back to the back face of the carrier shaft, and using a sharpie to mark the spot where the flat of the carrier "breaks" down into a steeply angled section. That is the minimum length (for the second) cartridge that the carrier will be able to push back into the mag tube as the first cartridge on the carrier is raised up to the chamber. That minimum depends upon when built and what maker machined the carrier block that is in your 66. Many Uberti's come with a block that will handle a minimum 1.500" OAL (cartridge length). The steep angle on the return ramp can even be flattend out some to get to where you can run cartridges as short as 1.450" (usually). Just don't file so much of the carrier block ramp off so that you break into the cavity for the lifter arm. Minimal lever force is required when minimum "return-to-magazine movement" of the second cartridge is done. That would be as close to the maximum length (1.600) as you can load (based on the design of the cast bullet) and short enough that the tip of the bullet does not catch in the mag tube opening as the gun is cycled. You can SEE all this going on as you cycle a dummy round, because the 66 and 73 actions are almost WIDE OPEN to inspection as they are cycled. Load a few dummies (no powder and a dead primer) and check what cycles well for you! My target OAL for .45 Colt and .44 WCF cartridges (which have very long cases) is 1.580", and about 1.520" if I load someone's .38 Special cases. Good luck, GJ
  8. Need ROA help

    Run that gun down to Jared at LongHunter Supply in Amarillo. Today. He'll find and fix what ails that gun. If it is JUST a too-tight B/C gap, that's a trivial fix. Good luck, GJ
  9. Uberti Cattleman firing pin nose shape?

    I'd call that a good application of COMMON CENTS Good luck, GJ
  10. Making some sense of Reloading Dies

    Oh, you mean these new Hornady dies? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011098266/hornady-cowboy-3-die-set Haven't used them. I would HATE that "floating seater" die for seating and crimping lead bullets, especially if conventionally lubed. That floating seater sleeve does not work well for very long until the lube has to be cleaned out of the die. And then it's a pain in the rear (yeah, I have one for a rifle caliber or two) to readjust seating depth. That type of seating sleeve design is best used for really precise rifle seating using jacketed slugs. To even think it's going to work loading low-precision gummy lead slugs that need to be cranked out quickly makes me think they turned design of that die set over to someone who hasn't shot cowboy games. With .44-40, I am thoroughly convinced you want to do seating in one die and crimping in a separate step! AND: Nope, it's a standard expander die, to go in a single-stage or turret conventional loading press. No way to drop powder through the top - that's where the stem for the expander button in screwed in. Any good progressive press provides it's own combination expander sleeve and automatic powder measure die so that as the case is shoved into that die, the powder charge drops through the expander sleeve and the sleeve expands the case neck and puts a slight bell on case mouth. Good luck, GJ
  11. Making some sense of Reloading Dies

    You'll find a lot of opinions about what die is perfect, too. What I use - the RCBS Cowboy die set for .44-40. http://rcbs.com/Products/Dies-by-Category/Cowboy/Cowboy-Dies-3-Die-Roll-Crimp-Set.aspx (I don't think Hornady makes special cowboy die sets, if they do, they will be hard to find.) Why the Cowboy set? Because the expander button in the expander die is about 0.429" diameter instead of the regular die set which has a .427" expander button. That larger button (which is also the size used in .44 mag dies) makes it possible to load a .429" or .430 bullet without collapsing the shoulder of the case because of a tight bullet fit in the case neck. To quickly cover what those dies do in a three die pistol set - * first die - decap, size, (i.e., remove fired primer, and resize case back down to minimum size) * second die - expand neck and put a slight bell on the mouth (neck needs to allow your lead slug to start down into the case by finger pressure - if it won't enter the case or has to be shoved hard, you will damage cases or bullets as you seat them) * third die - seat and crimp, or even better, just seat bullet * fourth die - crimp case mouth around bullet - this one is not in almost all .44-40 die sets! If you are using a progressive loader with a powder-drop-thru-die design as your second die, then for that neck expander sleeve, you will want a .44 mag sleeve rather than a .44-40 sleeve (which is normally too tight for a lead bullet at .429"). If you do buy a die set that has the small diameter neck expander button/sleeve, then you should contact the maker and have them send you the larger one, for a .44 mag die set. Hold it, fourth die? Yes, with a bottleneck pistol cartridge (.44-40) the case is thin, and seating and crimping is very finicky. Although a real experienced loader can make a good cartridge without bulging necks and collapsing shoulders, you probably won't for the first few hundred you load. Separating the seating step and the crimping step is a REAL good thing to do on .44-40. The separate seater die is used to let you insure that seating is exactly right depth (mouth of case shy of the driving band above where you want to crimp), followed by a crimp only die that cannot move the slug deeper, it ONLY roll crimps. The Lee Factory Crimp Die is good. But, the Redding Profile Crimp Die in 44-40 is EVEN BETTER. I started with Lee FCD. After still having problems getting a perfect crimp and no case damage, I went to the Redding and have tossed the Lee. It makes the tightest crimp, and it properly forces the neck back into shape if any bulging occurred because you had a slightly over-length case. You should review all the loading steps in a good loading manual. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook is really good at explaining the loading process. Good luck, GJ Here's a thread from over a year ago on why the Cowboy die set topic - https://www.sassnet.com/forums/index.php?/topic/246874-difference-in-cowboy-dies-and-regular-dies/
  12. What’s the opinion on ATI Road Agent?

    "Road Agent" is the same search I did to get the three topics. BUT - you have to switch the search context to be much more useful. By default, Search function is set to "this topic" - so the search just looks in the current thread (posting and replies). You at least normally want to search the Forum you are looking in, or even all the SASS wire content including classifieds and saloon. So, click on the search entry box and the menu should pop up: Then your search will run looking over a much broader range of postings. Good luck, GJ
  13. Trigger Pull Weights for one-handed shooting?

    As a duelist I like Revolver trigger pull about 3.5 to 4 pounds. (And about 4 for a 1911.) We shoot fast, so if the pull is crisp (allowing you to know that you have a repeatable amount of travel before let-off) then pull weight is not very critical. Although some folks can shoot two-handed with sub one-pound pulls, it seems us one handed holders need a little more than that to prevent ADs. Good luck, GJ
  14. Question about Black Powder for Shotguns

    Hot dry weather makes BP fouling harder. Moist cool air keeps fouling softer. Plastic from the (outside walls of) wads deposits on hot barrel walls with the BP fouling as you shoot BP shotgun loads. Soft fouling and plastic mix can pretty easily be be cleaned out with the next shot. Hard fouling and plastic just build up. So, in damp weather, or if you "hose down" the fouling after each stage, plastic deposits don't build up. In 100 degree desert conditions, it fills barrels to where they look like sewer pipes after a few stages. It cleans out easy, though, so most folks only get real concerned when fouling starts to affect the shucking of fired shells. Good luck, GJ
  15. Color case hardening on certain SAA parts?

    +1. Toughness throughout is needed for parts that take chamber pressures of 25,000 PSI and more. Not surface hardness. Conventional heat/quench case hardening can cause dimensional changes (aka warping) in larger and complex-shaped parts. Revolver frames are usually hardened in blocking frames to hold the dimensions of the frame. Parts with deep holes (cylinders, barrels) don't cool uniformly and would be quite badly affected by the quench. So, since the case hardening was not needed or successful in the 1800's on cylinders and barrels like it was on small parts like hands, pawls, screws, etc, manufacturers didn't apply it. Customers got used to cylinders and barrels being engraved if you wanted them to be "extra purdy", not case hardened. Good luck, GJ