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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Everything posted by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  1. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Shotgun recommendations

    Two standard high end doubles - (Ithaca) SKB 100 or 200 series, or Browning BSS. SKBs are light and fast. BSSs are ultra high quality and durable. Both have not been produced in last 20-30 years, so used guns are the only source. Both made by Miroku in Japan/Korea. As were some Daly 500s. Two fairly standard low end doubles. Stoeger and Baikal. Very hard to find Baikals (and parts) now because of the US embargo on Russian firearms imports. Baikals rarely break. Stoegers break faster than any other commonly used shotguns, and few folks can fix them when they do. Hard users may only get 3-4 years out of Stoegers. Casual shooters who don't run them hard - might get up to 20 years. Double triggers are much more reliable in the cheaper doubles than single triggers. All the Italian, Turkish and other miscellaneous suppliers - probably have 5% of the shotgun use in SASS matches. Important question to ask - are parts and gunsmith services going to be available - tomorrow and 5 years from now? Many of the Turkish guns made 5 years ago are no longer imported, supported with parts or favorites of gunsmiths. And most "antique" American side-by-sides as made in the first half of the 20th century are more trouble than they are worth. Good luck, GJ
  2. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    1873 - 1892 or Marlin...and why

    '73 - because it is the fastest, smoothest gun. It will require gun smithing to get to that point, though! Buy it already tuned for Cowboy shooting for maximum satisfaction. Go to your local cowboy shoots and try out ALL the guns. DO NOT BUY ANY COWBOY GUN without trying that model on the range! What the heck, I thought I got out of high school many years ago! . Good luck, GJ
  3. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Wild Bunch 1911

    From the hood on the barrel chamber to muzzle of barrel - the hood and rest of chamber is part of the barrel on any semi-auto pistol. So if you have the barrel out, you measure the longest length, from hood face to muzzle. If you have barrel assembled in the gun, find the slide's breech face (it's inside the recess for the hood), measure from there to the muzzle. You can even drop a pencil down barrel (with slide closed) and mark pencil at the muzzle, and measure that length. Same either way. Because FFL defines barrel length as "bolt face to muzzle." Most 1911s are 5" barrels. If it is a military surplus gun, or Colt Government model, or Springfield MilSpec model, it's a 5". Commander lengths are 4.25" Some concealment type guns made since 1980s have even shorter barrels. Long Slides are 6" (or longer). And ALL the makers list the barrel length in the specifications for the gun. Good luck, GJ
  4. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Lead and copper solvent?

    Tighter fitting softer bullets and you don't have to knock any lead out. Haven't scrubbed any lead from cowboy guns in last 5 years. Kroil works for cleaning up badly fouled barrels for me. Good luck, GJ
  5. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    73 cycling problem

    Usually this is spotted when loading mag because it just feels loose. Worth checking! I have even seen the tab on the loading gate on ONE 73 break and gate had to be replaced. That jams the gun solid when that happens, usually, with a round back into the toggles. Good luck, GJ
  6. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    73 cycling problem

    Two major things will keep properly loaded rounds from popping out of the magazine into the lifter on a 73. 1 - dirty mag tube, weak spring, dirty follower, or a binding of cartridges in the tube. The zig-zagging of cartridges in the tube rarely keeps rounds from popping out of tube, so let's forget about that for now. Clean the mag tube, the spring, the follower. Lightly lube all the parts with just a touch of oil or waxy lube. Check that you have enough spring pressure to get a single cartridge out of tube - that is usually the weakest the spring applies pressure to the cartridges. 2 - the lifter (carrier) is not going all the way down and there's a bit of a ledge keeping the round in the mag tube. With lever closed, examine that the bottom of carrier is flush with bottom of the frame. If not, crud in the action or a bent lever or lifter arm may be a culprit. If carrier is going all the way down, check for burrs on the chamber in the carrier into which the cartridge must slide. IF that doesn't let you find a problem, then get several dummy cartridges (or load some cases leaving dead primers in and just load a slug, no powder). Fill up magazine, work action, and each time, carefully lay rifle down, open loading gate half way and see if you DON'T see the base of a cartridge right inside. When you can recreate the condition of a cartridge not getting fully into that carrier, shine a flashlight up into the carrier's chamber and see how far the base of cartridge has come in, if any at all. That should tell you where it's hanging up, and give you more to go about what to fix. You can also look down from top of action with a light, looking around the bolt down to the cartridge in the carrier to see much of the same thing from a different view. Most likely, it's a dirty mag tube. If you have never cleaned the "Uberti factory rust" out of the mag tube, it's almost guaranteed that is the source of the problem. Good luck, GJ
  7. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Barrel Length

    Exactly as Abilene and Goody said. We are shooting "a drag race with firearms." Accuracy needed is a very small consideration. Reliability and quickness wins. Intuitive aiming, trigger it off as the sights get aligned on target. A long heavy barrel slows down the pointing, while trying to achieve accuracy. Ummm, "firearms. " We hope these guns don't have to be used in anger. Good luck, GJ
  8. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    New Vaqueros Not Cocking At Times

    If you can use a small punch or piece of wire to slightly depress the firing pin to level with the back surface of the frame, and can THEN cock successfully, you probably have a bad transfer bar or center pin/spring in the base pin. Some transfer bars are too tight to the frame, and flattened on the end. Then a weak spring in the base pin, or a failure to keep the base pin locked in with the base pin lock, leads to inability to cock the gun. Simplest problem, if it's just a flat end on the tip of transfer bar - you could file a bevel on the top forward-facing end of the transfer bar to let it get up and over the firing pin. Good luck, GJ
  9. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    ‘73 ejection problem

    I don't know why after 146 years no one has come up with a perfect, indestructible thingamabob!
  10. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Just for the looks it would get

    These are real barrels, just not very popular. Check with your WB match director. Standard rules prohibit anything but 5" barrel. Because a long slide 6" slide and barrel is a common high-performance race gun type modification. You are going to draw this how? Good luck, GJ
  11. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    New Vaqueros Not Cocking At Times

    Ruger is usually VERY fast on repairs. These being factory new, I'd send them back and they'll make them right. If you have any after-market parts, take them off! Even grips..... Good luck, GJ
  12. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    ‘73 ejection problem

    Well, you have plenty of bevel on that brass carrier. BTW - Never seen a dust cover get in the way. My guess is you are short-stroking the lever at speed. Have someone else try the gun at speed. Good luck, GJ
  13. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Thin Grindable Recoil Pad?

    There is no metal in them. Read the Kick Eez web site. All sorbothane, except for a hard plastic base plate. Fully grindable. I just pulled one out of my stock room and ran magnet all over it. No steel. Examined the base plate - its solid hard urethane plastic, no metal even at the screw mounting holes. I'd suggest you work with a gunsmith who knows recoil pads! If he does not know if the SMALL grind to fit pad will grind down to that very short LOP stock, he can call the KickEez fellows and talk with them! You really are doing something that is a little out of the ordinary stock fitting. BTW - if you are fitting this for a youth gun, keep the saw-off piece so you can extend the stock in a year or two when a growth spurt hits! Looks much better if you have the original stock wood rather than a somewhat matching piece of scrap stock. Good luck, GJ
  14. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Uberti Short Rifle In 44wcf

    Yes, adding to the lifter elevating pad (the one you can see looking up past the lever into receiver) would correct a slow rise. But since you recently installed the short stroke and ALUMINUM CARRIER, the hang up could well be the same as the one Chicken George wrote about a week ago, which is that the lower shelf on the top lips of the carrier was not beveled to let the rim have enough room to swivel out from under the extractor. Several of my 73s are timed so that the ejection contact (the higher top shelf of the carrier lips) didn't contact the fired case until the bolt is inside the frame and just about stopped in it's rearward travel. They eject well. So, FIRST THING, is take a look at pictures on previous Chicken George thread Here: and see if your carrier needs a "little relief" - as Jerry Clower used to say. There are known to be some versions of the aluminum carrier that are grabbing the rim because they are not beveled to let the rim swivel properly. Good luck, GJ
  15. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Uberti Short Rifle In 44wcf

    Yep, two different threads in the last week have covered some of the solutions. Most likely, it's still out of time - with the bolt face receding into the frame before the carrier rises to eject the fired round. That is a "slow rise" timing problem. What you checked for is a "too early rise" timing problem. That is half the check you have to do! Good luck, GJ
  16. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Thin Grindable Recoil Pad?

    I usually use the Pachmayr SC-100 pad, 0.8" thick, that is grind-to-fit, for an application where absorbing recoil is desired but not mandatory. https://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/recoil-parts/recoil-pads/universal/sc100-decelerator-recoil-pad-prod9728.aspx It's a solid pad (no vents, which look rather silly on a cowboy gun), but has a hard plastic insert at the top edge (the heel) for a real fast mount. And the surface texture of the pad is pebbled, not aggressively ribbed or grooved. Secure on shoulder, but very fast to mount. If you want to absorb more shotgun recoil, then use a thicker grind-to-fit Kick-Eez pad. https://kickeezproducts.com/recoil-pads/dual-action-recoil-pad/ Is a good design for cowboy shotguns. Good luck, GJ
  17. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    WTC Inertial trigger reset

    Most calls made on the 170 rule will be somewhat contentious. Because it is a pure judgement call. And because it's a severe penalty. Because of the contentiousness, many ROs or spotters are VERY reluctant to call it until it becomes real obvious, or it degenerates into "other person covered by a barrel of a loaded gun" (which is what the 170 barrier is trying to prevent, of course). If you had good view of the gun and were paying CLOSE attention to the barrel position and it was obvious (not borderline), call a 170 violation and award the SDQ penalty. If there were doubts, hold your tongue and mention it to the shooter once he has cleared the line and put his guns away. A safety minded shooter will take that warning very seriously and you won't see a repeat. But if you do see it again, make the call mentioned above when it happens the second time. That is how I'd handle it. Good luck, GJ
  18. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    NOS Cimarron 73s - Below Wholesale

    Uberti 73 rifles (and Miroku Winchester 73s) are NOT made in stainless steel. A few have been nickle plated, I would guess, but that would be post factory. Good luck, GJ
  19. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Need hammer V springs for Liberty - CZ-USA shotgun - video added

    Which means you have plenty of length to work with! Does the Liberty spring have the same type/diameter of locating pin close to the fold that the TTN spring uses? If same diameter, that means maybe pin would not have to be replaced either. Good luck, GJ
  20. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Need hammer V springs for Liberty - CZ-USA shotgun - video added

    I'd make a set, if it were my gun. Some flat spring stock from Brownells, then harden and temper using Brownell's instructions. Or Midway. In a day and a couple of tries, you would be finished AND have learned to make flat springs. Only trick is getting the hook beat into the lower end, which is done before hardening. But, would a TTN hammer spring not fit, after refitting the hook end? Looks fairly close in general shape, and it has the strength that is needed to drive an external hammer...... Those you could get from Cimarron. Good luck, GJ
  21. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Selling guns at WR

    Yes, in fact several FFLs will be there. I always use Johnny Meadows to do a FFL transfer process. There will be several other gun dealers in Vendors Row, and even a few others shooting. At least some of those will be willing to help you out. If you are non-AZ resident (as stated in your info), all handguns probably need to be transferred through an FFL. Long guns - ask about that because I'm not as sure of AZ and CA laws as I am my own. It always makes sense to stop by whatever FFL you will use AHEAD of the sale, to let them know you will be looking for them later. Let them set the time and day. And make sure the FFL is paid a reasonable transfer fee, even if the buyer gets sensitive about it. Next time you want to do a transfer, the skids will be greased by smooth and courteous past performance. A Tip - Make a few copies (can be B&W) of your Driver License and carry them with you. The FFL dealer will appreciate having all your info on a single sheet of paper instead of having to pry it out of you in perhaps a noisy environment. Good luck, GJ
  22. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Shooting off center

    Too much finger, and possibly even a flinch. The trigger should be pulled by the center of the pad above the first joint of trigger finger. If you get trigger in the joint bend, it is SO easy to pull a revolver left (right handed) or right (lefty). A flinch is suppressed by a tight two handed grip. But a tight grip is not conducive to quick trigger work and fairly accurate shooting. So you need to learn to pull trigger properly. ESPECIALLY so if you want to shoot duelist style. Yes, it's you, not the guns. Good luck, GJ
  23. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    what derringer? Holster??

    Yep, folks who wear a derringer to the main match stages do that exactly once. They then realize there is no need to pack it while competing in main match. And, I've seen lots of derringer side matches - never are you required or even allowed to start with derringer in holster. Good luck, GJ
  24. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Smokeless Cowboy 45 Special

    I run WST and a TC bullet at 175 grains. Accurate and very clean. Needs tight crimp though to burn clean. Good luck, GJ
  25. Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

    Ejection Problem

    Here for reference is a factory (brass) carrier on an unfired 73 in .45 Colt. This one was produced about 2013 or so. There's a significant bevel on the lower step of the carrier top. On this one, it's rounded over, not a straight "plane" of a bevel. Photo does not show how it's almost a 1/4" diameter rounded profile. However you keep the rim free to twist out from under the extractor will usually work. Good luck, GJ

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